Pet Care Guides

I bathe my very furry dog once a week and I am just afraid that my home will start smelling like dog soon. We just got him 2 weeks ago, so I haven’t noticed anything yet, but I would like to keep it that way. I walked in my house the other day, and was hit with dog smell. Does anyone recommend any shampoos or cologne brands for dogs? I am ready to rip out all my rugs and put vinyl down. Any good tips on keeping your home from smelling like a dog?

Consumer how to keep your house from smelling like dog include comments such as:

The most important thing is to potty train the animals, which I assume is already done. Second the animals should be bathed on a semi-regular basis. At least enough so that the animals doesn’t smell. If the animals still smells it is probably because of glands they has in their anal area. If you are really close to your dogs you can do it yourself, but the easier choice is to have them bathed at the the vet or another place where they can be washed, whenever this becomes a problem, but be sure to ask them to do it. Otherwise they may forget. febreeze wouldn’t hurt either.

You should always dry their feet of it is wet outside, and wash the feet if it is really muddy outside.

Firstly, you’re bathing your dog too much. If you brush him daily, especially outside, that will mitigate any dog smell. You really shouldn’t bathe a dog more than once a month, if that. We only bathe ours if they’re particularly muddy or stinky. Secondly, as long as you clean and vacuum your house regularly you will not have a problem. I have 9 dogs and while I am a Febreze advocate, I also advise just keeping a window or two open so air can circulate. My house does not smell like dogs at all.

Giving your dog the best diet possible will keep him from smelling. I gotta admit, your comment about the smegma made me throw up a little in my mouth. you should be cleaning that with a warm, wet towel- or it WILL smell.

when you sweep your floors, sprinkle down a little baby powder first. it will help to lift hair and dirt, and will make your floor smell a lot better between washings. if he’s urinating on his paws, you can teach him to stand up in the bathroom at the sink to have his feet washed when you bring him in.

I don’t recommend any particular shampoo, because i have APBT and Bandogges, so the only time they get bathed is when they play in something nasty, or get really muddy, and then it’s an emergency, so i usually use my Dr. Bronner’s Almond oil soap (that i use on myself). it’s safe and natural, and works pretty well ( just follow the instructions all over the bottle: “Dilute, dilute, dilute!!”) the rest of the time i just brush them down and wipe them with a damp towel to remove dust and extra fur.

I have 4 boxers and very rarely does it stink of dog the key

1 – i have laminate flooring and tiles mop twice daily with an odour neutraliser like zoflora

2 – have windows open every day for at least an hour

3 – plug in febreeze and/spray febreeze

4 – Washing beds regularly

But the truth is if you have carpet its very hard to stop the smell as hairs mould into the carpet and regulat carpet cleans are needed. Any accidents need tobe thoroughly cleaned straight away and maybe a full clean once your puppy is potty trained i always find simple warm water and soap a good way if my dogs ever go upstairs on the carpet!!!

The “dog smell” is because you have dogs. You’re going to have the smell regardless. I’ve found that heavily scented candles placed near ‘dog spots’ [the bed, the door, your room, crates, etc] work to cover it up. I also light a candle every two hours to make sure that we don’t have the dog smell lingering.

Bathe your dogs regularly, use cleaner on the spots that they have accidents, wash bedding and blankets every week [both hygenic and a good way to eliminate smells].

I steam clean once a week along with daily vacuuming. When I vacuum I sprinkle down some baking soda half an hour in advance and it helps to get rid of any doggy smells in the carpets.

My guys also have scented collars that they wear when we expect company over. We soak their “company collars” [nylon, water proof] in a deodorizing agent [febreeze, liquid candle, etc] for a few minutes and put them on before people come over. It makes them, and anything they walk around, smell good.

Its a lot to go through, but its worth it. I ask my non-dog owning friends every once in a while if they can tell we have a dog and the answer is usually no.

11 Tips How to Manage Pet Odors

1. Keep Your Home Clean. Let’s start with the obvious — cleaning your home on a regular basis is a must if you want to get rid of unwanted pet odors. Vacuuming, dusting, mopping, and washing fabrics are a few of the most important tasks that you must frequently complete if you’re going to have any hope of competing with Eau de Fido.

2. Keep Your Pet Clean, Too. Another must is to frequently clean and groom your pet — from baths to brushing, keeping your furry friend fresh will go a long way in keeping your home smelling likewise. Even little things like nail clipping and tooth brushing (if your pet will allow it) can have a big impact. If you have a particularly difficult candidate, a grooming service may be the way to go.

3. And Don’t Forget to Clean Your Pet’s Stuff. Not only does your pet need to be kept in tip top shape, all of its accessories need to be maintained as well. Clean your animal’s bedding, toys, dishes, cage, and litter box on a weekly basis.

4. Be Smart About the Litter Box. Cat litter is a biggie, so here are a few tips where the box is concerned:

It may sound crazy, but if you have the space it’s recommended that you have at least one litter box per cat.
Litter box selection is key — be sure that you choose a little box that is large enough that your cat doesn’t accidentally go outside of the box, and preferably choose one with a cover and filter to help contain any odors.
Find the right litter for you and your pet(s) — try a few different brands until you find one that works best at keeping the smell under control.

Mix baking soda into your cat’s litter as an added defense against odor.

Scoop the litter box at least once daily, but the more frequently the better. If this isn’t possible, consider one that automatically does the work for you (you just have to remember to empty it at least once a day.)

Location, location, location — make sure you place the litter box in the most removed and/or contained spot in the house, whether that be the basement, bathroom, or even a closet.

5. Air Out Your House. Even in the colder months, opening windows and doors once a week for even ten minutes can make a huge difference in your home’s air quality.

6. De-Odorize Floors. Sprinkle baking soda on carpets a few hours before vacuuming them to help absorb any trapped odors, or better yet, replace wall-to-wall carpeting with a harder surface like wood, laminate, or tile.

7. If You Can’t Beat It, Cover It Up. Use air neutralizers and masking scents like cleverly placed dryer sheets, carpet fresheners, scented candles, plug-in air fresheners, and sprays.

8. Change Your Filters. Install a HEPA air filtration system and replace any filters in your home on a regular basis. Additionally, be sure that the air ducts are periodically cleaned.

9. Take Care of Your Furniture. Don’t allow pets on your furniture, or, if you must, choose your furniture wisely — leather is more pet friendly than fabric, metal is more durable and easier to clean than wood. If your pet has a favorite place to repose, a well-placed throw is much easier to clean than a sofa cushion.

10. Choose Rugs Wisely. Pick rugs that are low pile, easy to clean (like the indoor-outdoor variety), or easy to replace like FLOR tiles.

11. Seal It Up. If all else fails, try sealing your floors and walls. Even priming and painting can go a long way as well. If you’ve done all of this and still have a strong pet odor lingering in your home, it may be time to call the professionals.

12. Vacuum, vacuum, and then vacuum some more. After dealing with your hardwoods, linoleum, and tile floors, it is time to turn your attention to your carpets.

Your carpets hold an incredible amount of hair, dust and dander, so you’ll want to vacuum every square inch of carpet in your home, including any area rugs (ideally, you’ll want to be using short pile, dog-friendly rugs that that are easy to vacuum).Once you’re done with the carpets, vacuum all of your furniture (be sure to get all of the cracks and crevices) and curtains with the appropriate attachments.

While just about any vacuum will help collect some of the smelly things hiding in your carpet, you may want to consider purchasing a vacuum specifically designed for homes with pets. We reviewed some of the best ones a while back, so be sure to check out our recommendations for best pet handheld vacuums if you are in the market for a new model.

Always empty the canister (if present) after vacuuming your home and be sure to change or clean out the air filters frequently to keep it operating at peak efficiency.

Guide remove pet pee smell from carpet infographic

We got a new puppy a week ago. We’ve been pretty good about getting her outside to potty, but she has had a couple of “accidents” I can already smell that the house is getting that “dog owner” smell. We also have two inside cats, but I know what to do to handle their stink, lol. What do I do to keep the house smelling presentable?

Consumer how to keep your house from smelling like cats include comments such as:

My cat has this habit of marking the carpet where he’s thrown up. And when I use an enzymatic cleaner (I have mainly tried Nature’s Miracle and a vinegar mixture) he goes right back to that spot and pees there to cover the cleaner smell. He hates it! I’ve found that if I catch the vomit spot before he really gets to it and scrub the carpet with just some water and maybe a little bit of soap, he usually leaves it alone. Otherwise, all bets are off. The only way to keep him from going back to a spot he’s marked is to lay down either a rug to cover it or some sheets of aluminum foil over the spot. And trust me, having patches of aluminum foil scattered around the apartment is obviously less than idea. But nothing else seems to work. I seriously have dreams of having my own place someday where I can install some nice heavy duty laminate floor or something. Anything but carpet.

The very best odor remover for kittie & dog odors is something our vet turned us onto, called KOE. It’s a concentrate that you mix with water, and then mop with or spot treat carpet/laundry. (It smells like a *really* strong Pinesol when wet, so have a window open while you’re cleaning. The smell goes away, along with the pet smell, after it’s dry.) I’ve used it on hardwood and tile, and yucky dog bed laundry and it works way better than even the enzyme cleaners. It’s the only thing that’s made living with a FLUTD cat possible. We buy it on Amazon; I’ve never seen it in any local stores. Our vet said it was something they bought through a medical distributor, so I think that’s why it’s not widely known.

My solution for my cat’s litter box in our tiny apartment: jumbo disposable litter box (natures miracle) + silica crystal litter (dr elseys “long hair”, despite my cat having the sleekest of short fur) + a plastic roof/cover. Once a month the entire box and litter is tossed and the roof washed with vinegar. There is literally no smell whatsoever, even to my incredibly sensitive-nosed mother. The one downside is the litter still gets scattered and the pieces are pretty sharp. I’ve also used and liked everclean multi-cat clumping, but since the litter box is in the bathroom the clay turned to cement on the floor. It has a light fresh scent that is, in my opinion, much better than the smell if clay, and way better than the disgusting fake floral smell of most scented litters.

Is there any way to do this in the washer or in the dryer? Dog hair gets on my dogs’ blankets when they lay on them and on their towels from baths. Not to mention my shirts from holding and cuddling them. Any tips/tricks on a way to get it off while the laundry was in the washing machine or dryer would be appreciated. I am looking for a way that I don’t have to remove it individually from each item of clothing. How can I get dog hair off the clothes I am washing/drying? Thanks.

“The problem with cats and dogs is that they shed.” Shedding is a common complaint of people who prefer homes free of pet hair to the joys of having a pet. But do we have to choose?

To a point, yes. If you don’t want any pet hair in your home, don’t get a pet. However, we can reduce the problem of pet hair on furniture and clothing with these approaches:

•  Reduce the amount of pet hair that your cats and dogs shed
• Choose fabrics that attract less pet hair
• Remove pet hair from clothing and furniture
• Accept some pet hair as a part of life

Reduce the amount of pet hair that your cats and dogs shed

Look for causes of pet hair loss. Pet hair loss is normal. Animals shed seasonally, and indoors animals may shed more because their systems can’t detect seasonal changes as well. Moreover, unexpected temperature swings may cause pet hair to shed and regrow more often.

However, some animals may have hair loss for reasons beyond seasonal changes. If your pet is shedding excessively, try changing his diet. If he’s under stress, try to alleviate his stress. Take him to your veterinarian to be checked for any medical causes of hair loss.

Brush your pet regularly. Daily brushing removes loose hair before it gets on you and throughout your home. Brushing also helps keep your pet’s coat healthier.Bathe your dog. Bathing your dog also reduces loose hair.

Choose fabrics that attract less pet hair

For your furniture and wear-at-home clothing, consider fabrics that pet hair doesn’t stick to as well. Denim, for example, doesn’t attract pet hair as much as to some other fabrics. Pet hair is less likely to stick to some garments that have been washed a lot than to newer garments. Polyester, rayon, and nylon also attract less hair than some fabrics do.

Fabric furniture collects pet hair. Pet hair does not stick to leather furniture, however, and any pet hair that the animal sheds while on leather furniture can be easily brushed off. Suede furniture is also easier to remove pet hair from than fabric furniture is.

Protect your clothing and furniture

You want to spend quality time with your pets, but you don’t need your pets to spend quality time with your clothing. Keep your closet door closed, and be sure to put clothes away when you aren’t wearing them.

If you allow your pets on furniture, put a towel on their favorite place to sleep. Encourage them to use that spot and that spot only. You can remove the towel when you have company.

For cars, a pet car robe covers the back seat of the car, protects it from pet hair, adds comfort for your dog, and is easy to put on and take off.

A variety of techniques make pet hair removal easier

Pet hair removal from clothing during laundry

If your dryer has a lint trap, it will catch a lot of pet hair while your clothing is in the dryer. To increase its effectiveness, use a fabric softener sheet in the dryer. Better yet, use liquid fabric softener during the wash cycle as well. But avoid using scented versions of both — the combined scent may be too strong.
To increase its effectiveness, empty the lint trap after every load.

Pet hair removal around the home

Lint brushes and lint rollers can be used to remove pet hair. So can masking or packing tape wrapped around your hand or rolled into a ball with the sticky side out. Rub it along the fabric grain.

Rubber gloves (particular those with ridges) and damp sponges also pick up pet hair fairly well.

Vacuum regularly, daily if necessary. Rub fabric furniture with a used fabric softener sheet before vacuuming to loosen the pet hair.

Accept some pet hair as a part of life

While we can do a lot to reduce the amount of pet hair that spreads through our homes, we can’t eliminate it completely. We can accept it as a small trade-off for the love and companionship that our pets give us.

How do you remove dog hair from blankets?

Step 1: Remove lint and hair from your blanket with a lint brush or roller. You can also use Velcro curlers or a rubber glove by brushy them across the blanket in short strokes. Hang the blanket over your shower curtain rod and lint roll both sides of the blanket.

Step 2: Wash the blanket in the washing machine following the care instructions. Add liquid fabric softener and 1 cup of vinegar to the wash load. Do not wash blankets with lint-producing items like towels or sweaters.

Step 3:  Empty the lint trap for your dryer before you dry your blanket.

Step 4: Put your blanket in the dry on low heat. Use a dryer sheet and a dryer ball to attract lint and lift it away from the blanket.

Step 5: Hang the blanket over the shower curtain rod when it is dry. Use a lint brush or roller to remove any hair that is left on the blanket.

How do I reduce cat hair in my home?

Get Out the Brush

Your best defense against the onslaught of feline hair is daily — or at least several-times-weekly — brushing. Most cats enjoy a good session with the brush, but if yours doesn’t, start off by letting her sniff and investigate the brush, then give just one or two gentle strokes before putting the brush away. Build up the brushing sessions slowly until your cat tolerates a thorough grooming. Slicker brushes or shedding combs dig down deep to remove loose hair. Brushing your cat also reduces the amount of hair she swallows while grooming, thus cutting down on unpleasant vomiting of hairballs.

Feed Quality Food

Diet plays a role in the health of your cat’s coat. Feeding low-quality food with a high content of grains and carbohydrates, instead of the hearty helping of the protein and fat cats need, can lead to excessive shedding, dandruff or other skin and fur conditions. Look for a balanced cat food that has a protein source as the first ingredient, not wheat or corn. Both canned and dry cat food are healthy choices, but canned food offers extra moisture, something many cats don’t get enough of on their own.

Vacuum Regularly

When you own a cat or dog, the vacuum cleaner is your friend. Plan on vacuuming at least once per week, more often if you have multiple cats, a family member suffers with allergies or you just can’t stand to have hair on your carpets and furniture. Look for a vacuum that specifies it does a good job on pet hair, and includes accessories for cleaning upholstery and draperies. Though bagless vacuums are convenient, cat hair can eventually clog up the filters and motor, reducing suction. Clean your vacuum’s filters and rollers frequently to keep it working smoothly.

When to See the Vet

Sometimes excessive shedding indicates a medical condition that needs treatment from your veterinarian. If Fluffy has bald patches, scratches herself frequently, has reddened skin or sores, or just generally appears unwell, it’s time for a visit to the vet. Health problems that affect the coat include allergies, thyroid or other hormonal imbalances, pregnancy, stress and infections. Your vet will examine your pet and recommend treatment for any diagnosed disorders. If your pet has allergies, your vet may prescribe special food formulated for sensitive cats.
How do you get pet hair out of laundry?

Try using one of the green Scotch-Brite scrub sponges and lightly brush across the item that needs to be de-haired. This method might even work better if you wet the sponge and wring out as much water as possible.

Do you remember old velcro curlers? The larger the curler’s barrel, the easier it is to brush the surface of the fabric. You can still find them at most drugstores.

Use a yellow rubber household glove – the kind you use to wash dishes. Put the glove on and get it wet. Shake off the excess water and run your gloved hand along the clothing surface.

While it is not very economical, you can try tumbling the clothes in the dryer for 15-20 minutes. The lint trap will catch a lot of the hair, but you’ll usually need to use one of the other listed methods to be completely pet hair free.

Tips Get Rid of Pet Hair for Good!

First it’s floors

To some degree, every pet owner has to make peace with the fact that there will simply be some pet hair. Likewise, you’ve probably already accepted that you have regular vacuuming to do to get rid of it. But here are some ways to reduce your labor on the floors.

Hard floor surfaces

Instead of a vacuum, switch to an electrostatic dust mop for hard floors, at least for a first pass. Vacuum exhausts can send hair flying around back onto surfaces, defeating the whole purpose of vacuuming. Even the action of a broom can send hair flying. Instead, something like a Swiffer will actually catch the hair in its place. You can even switch out the disposable wipes with a microfiber cloth, which also has that essential electrostatic charge. (I like this option since you can reuse the cloth several times, and it gets laundered instead of tossed.) find Best Cordless Vacuum For Pet Hair.

Carpeted floors and area rugs

Before vacuuming, dust baking soda over the carpets (no surprise coming from me, right?). This helps loosen the hair and also deodorizes at the same time (double win!).

You can also use a dry rubber squeegee or rubber broom to lift up any pet hair from carpets. It might freak you out slightly and cause slight rage at your vacuum (why is it missing so much?!), but man, does it ever work. Just “rake” an area with the tool in short, fast strokes and you’ll see hair peeling up off the carpet.

If your carpet corners and edges are darkened, it means you’ve got a hefty hair build-up you need to deal with. Put on a rubber glove, wet the pointer finger, then drag it across the area where the carpet meets the baseboard. (Insert shame face here.)

Finally, if you’ve got the budget for it, get a robot vacuum. This machine doesn’t complain, it just vacuums all day and all night, on your command, managing pet hair so you don’t have to. Plus, it totally amuses the pets!

Next furniture

You may have noticed that I’m going against my usual rule to clean a room from the top down—I don’t recommend touching your furniture until you’ve vacuumed or Swiffered/swept the floors first, or else hair will just fly around and re-settle, and you’ll be caught in a never-ending battle of you vs. rogue pet hair (I’ve been there—guess who wins?). For pet owners, my rule is to sandwich the cleaning of the rest of the room between two solid floor-vacuuming sessions (annoying, I know, but it really works)!

Furniture finishes such as wood, glass, laminate, etc.

To deal with pet hair on non-upholstered furniture, like wood, laminate, or glass, consider using a microfiber cloth lightly spritzed with just water. The electrostatic charge of microfiber will attract the hair, and the water helps make it slightly sticky. That’s really all you need to do—but be mindful of how full of hair the cloth gets, and be prepared to change it often, so that you don’t re-deposit hair all over the place.

Upholstered furniture

For hair on upholstery, you can of course use a vacuum or a lint roller, but you can also try this hack: Dampen a clean sponge, rubber glove, or rubber squeegee, then rub the item along the upholstery and watch the hair come up. You can also pick up a specialty product for this, like a Lilly Brush.

Blankets and pet beds

If your pet has a favorite hot spot on your furniture, place a washable blanket right on it, to prevent it from becoming fur-niture. We have blankets all over our sofa and ottoman, and when guests come over, we get rid of them. They really do help manage the hair.

Speaking of blankets, if you have a pet bed, wash it frequently to prevent odors. Just follow the instructions on the care label.

HVAC and ducts

Pet owners, get your air ducts cleaned as regularly as you can swing. Hair and dander settle there and can get re-circulated, meaning more hair to clean for you. Same goes for your furnace filter: change it frequently to help rid the house of accumulated pet hair and dander.

Laundry time

Of all the pet hair questions we get asked, this one has to be the biggest area of concern. Many of you still see pet hair on freshly cleaned clothes (happens to me too). Here’s the best trick I’ve learned to do away with pet hair on clean clothes: Loosen the pet hair up before washing, before the agitation of the machines actually weaves the hair more deeply into our duds, and we’ll have a good chance of getting rid of it.

Start by placing clothing in the dryer for 10 minutes on a heat-free, tumble-only cycle. This will help loosen the hair. Remember to empty your dryer vent. Smart, right?!

Now, shake each garment out before placing in the washing machine to rid it of any extra hair, and wash as you normally would. You can even add in ½ cup of white vinegar, which will help the fabric fibers relax, and of course, loosen any extra hair.

Once the wash is done, shake each garment out again before placing into the dryer. Dry using a regular tumbling cycle. Dryer sheets can help reduce static cling, which helps break the bond between remaining hair and clothing. You can also use dryer balls—I use as many as I can find per load!

Finally, pet grooming

Remember, every hair you can manage to remove from your pet is one less hair you have to clean up.

Brushing

We have a Furminator and a few other similar brushes. Malee really, truly loves it and asks to be groomed often. Paislee on the other hand, feels it’s torture! So, we go easy on her. But oh boy, does that Furminator get rid of hair. Malee sheds less whenever I use it. The same tool is available for dogs, and the same concept applies. I highly recommend it.

When brushing, if you have a dog or outdoor cat and the weather permits, do it outside so that the hair can fly around out there and not inside your house. If you have to do it indoors, lay your pet on a towel while brushing to catch more hair.

Bathing

Yes, cats bathe themselves, but giving them a bath every now and then rids them of excess dander. Just be prepared for some cartoon-level resistance. Monthly bathing is best for dogs. Here’s a neat dog groomer’s secret I came across: if you want to get all the shedding undercoat out, start by brushing the dog, then shampoo twice and use conditioner. Rinse really well each time to get rid of clumps of hair. Finish off by drying the dog (be sure to cover his or her ears, and do not use the dryer on any sensitive parts!). Brush well after completely dry and then—wait for it—repeat the entire process! I know how it sounds. But if you do it twice, you’ll get rid of so much extra hair! If the thought of this overwhelms you, take your dog to a professional groomer and have them perform a special shedding treatment twice a year (which is basically what this is). This is especially helpful to do during shedding season (spring and fall).

Pet vacuum cleaner

Dyson makes an animal hair attachment called the Groom Tool. Essentially, you can vacuum your pet, if they’ll let you. (Mine sure won’t!)

I hope these tips enlighten you and give you hope for a pet hair-free home (at least, a much more pet hair-free home). It does take a few changes to your cleaning routine, but you will notice a big reduction in the volume of pet hair around the house. When in doubt? You can always grab your trusty lint roller.

Best cordless vacuum cleaner to get rid of pet hair

There are a few great models that effectively tackle pet hair on hardwood floors, and the best pick for you is a matter of your personal preferences and your budget. you can find best vacuum cleaner for pet hair under $100.

If you’re looking for a reasonably priced upright, check out the Hoover WindTunnel MAX. Hoover’s Windtunnel technology has won over many fans for its boosted performance on pet hair and other debris, and this particular model earns some of the best marks in consumer tests for hardwood floors and pet hair.

Our favorite canister model is the Kenmore Elite 21814 Intuition, a bagged canister vacuum that produces huge amounts of suction. It’s an especially good fit for homes with a mixture of carpets and hardwood, and comes with a host of useful and effective attachments.

Those on a shoestring budget should check out the BISSELL PowerEdge, our favorite wallet-friendly pet hair vacuum for hardwood floors. The PowerEdge offers a lot for its low price—its V-shaped head does a great job picking up debris both large and small, and the slim, lightweight body reaches tight corners often neglected by larger vacuums.

What are the most effective ways you rid your laundry of pet hair? Any special products you use?

To keep a dog clean requires washing or brushing, or both. The less washing the better, and unless the dog is a white one and looks dirty or smells a little doggy, stick to the brush as long as possible. There are many dog brushes, just as we have a variety of dogs’ coats. Collies, setters, and those with a good quality of coat will do well enough with the better sort of dandy-brush, such as is used in the stable. The fibres are long enough and coarse enough to penetrate to the skin and clean that well. Then for a top polish the bristle-glove or the brush with the flexible leather and strap-back will answer admirably, polishing the coat and thoroughly separating it, so that it shows to the best advantage. The finer and shorter the coat, the finer the brush that may be used, until it comes to the long-coated toys such as those of the Pomeranians, spaniels, or Yorkshires. For Pomeranians a special brush is made, with good length of bristles and not all the same length; for Yorkshires, a fine bristle and a rounded front. As to the Yorkshire terriers such as we see at shows they are quite unsuitable for the house, as they have to be kept in the most artificial manner so as to grow and preserve the coat as we see it on exhibition specimens. The toy spaniels are different, however, their coats being of moderate length, of more substance, and not so liable to break when being brushed. In all long-coated dogs be par- ticular to comb or brush the coat thoroughly at the back of the ears, and also about the hind-quarters, for it will otherwise become matted.

When it is deemed necessary to wash a dog, use the best quality of soap, whether special dog-soap or toilet-soap. The strong common soaps take the polish from the coat, and it will take a day or so to come on again. Use plenty of water, regulating its warmth according to the breed of dog and its ability to stand cold water. If the dog is not averse to the bath, begin at the head and lather well, being as quick as possible in the operation and doing it thoroughly. If you are using a carbolic soap or any flea-killer of strong quality, follow immediately with a plain soap lather and wash out. Have ready another bath or sufficient water to refill the one being used, and let this be colder than the first with more than the chill off, and for strong dogs in the summer-time let it be cold water. It is preferable to put the dog in the empty tub or bath, and let an attendant pour on the clean water from a jug or water-pot while you rinse out the coat with both hands so as to remove every particle of the soap. On large and hardy dogs you can use the lawn water-pipe. This cooler bath not only cleans out the soap, but to a great extent prevents colds.

As it takes considerable time to soap large dogs with a cake of soap and get a good lather, it will be found more convenient to shave the soap and dissolve it in warm water, using this either by laving it on with the hand as needed or pouring it along the back and rubbing the lather down the sides. Some dogs object to being washed, but no matter how fractious they may be, a little patience and firmness never fails to quiet them. In such cases wash the body first, and when they are quieted do the head. Let them know that they must submit, and they will. The toys are more likely to be the worst, but as they know the ashamed tone of voice very well, hold the little rascals down by their forelegs and talk to them seriously. If on letting go one of the legs a toy dog does not struggle, tell him what a nice little dog he is, and he is very certain to behave himself. If he does not, then repeat the process till he does.

Now comes the hardest part of the process, the drying. Here again weather and the variety of the dog create differences. A good, hardy ter- rier in the summer-time is a very different thing from a toy in the winter. Having thoroughly rinsed all soap from the coat, empty the bath, and placing the dog in it or some place where the drip from the coat will not damage anything, squeeze as much of the water out as you can, running the hands the way of the coat and down the legs, squeezing the foot. After that take a sponge and go over the coat in a similar manner. If the dog is not long-coated so as to get snarled, the sponge may be rubbed up and down in the coat and will be found to absorb much of the water. The next proc- ess is rubbing with a towel, and this should continue till the coat is well dried, more particularly in cold weather, and in the case of delicate dogs, or of those which cannot be liberated for a smart run in the warm sunshine on account of their being prepared for show. This point will be treated later. You cannot err in drying the dog well, so do it thoroughly and in the case of toys use dry, warm towels, thereafter applying a warm brush and the hands till no trace of dampness remains in the coat. In the country in sum- mer time, when one has a good lawn on which to let a dog run, the sun and breeze will assist materially in the drying process, though one must use judgment, for some dogs are almost too delicate for this exposure unless the weather is exceedingly favourable.

There is no question that strong soap will take the polish off a dog’s coat, but it is perhaps not altogether that. If a person takes a very warm bath, or washes his face in hot water, there is a very decided subsequent feel- ing of dryness about the skin, which is not the case when cold or tepid water is used. The hot water of itself takes away the natural tone of the skin, and it must have a similar effect upon the hair of the dog, hence the advisa- bility of using as cool water as the conditions will permit.

• Never give a dog hot food.
• Never allow a dog to eat out of a dish used by people for eating or washing; the dog has parasites dangerous to us.
• Never let a dog lick your face.
• Do not force a dog into water for sticks if he does not wish to go, for it may injure him.
• If the dog leaves part of his food untouched, he is being fed too much .
• If a dog bites you, disinfect the wound with a strong solution of carbolic acid and consult a doctor.
• If you do not wish your dog to be “smelly”, wash him as often as needful, and wet him to the skin.
• If you have to punish your dog, do it when he is caught in the offense, for dogs cannot remember long.
• Never strike a dog over the head, ears, or abdomen.
• The dog should always have access to fresh, clean water.

There is no better or more suitable food for the house-dog than table scraps, the meat being cut fine enough to prevent its being specially picked out and the rest left. Mix this with bread and mashed vegetables, moistened with gravy or soup. Dogs are much better out of the dining-room, except in the case of a thoroughly trained one that will not beg for food. Puppies should always be excluded and food taken to them preferably out of doors, or to some certain place always used for this purpose, so that the dog will learn that this and this only is its feeding-place. Have a dish of clean water there also, and if you wish to oblige your many advisers, you can put a piece of sulphur in the dish, or if you have not that handy, a stone will do as well, for neither is soluble in water. Sulphur is good for the dog, but it needs to be administered in another way. Take equal parts of sulphur and mag- nesia, mix thoroughly and put in the evening meal for a week as much as will cover a dime, and then discontinue. This will cool your dog off in the summer time. For anything smaller than a fox-terrier reduce the quantity one-half. Sulphur is also good for outward application for cuts, wounds or sores; our almost universal remedy for these being crude petroleum and sulphur mixed to the consistency of thick cream. Stick-sulphur, however,, is of no more use than a stone.

How Often to Feed Your Dog

How often to feed a dog depends upon age and weather. As we feed children oftener than we do ourselves, and we eat more in winter than in summer, so, too, in the case of a puppy of two months old, feed it at least five times a day the last meal late in the evening, and the first as early as possible in the morning. In another month or so drop off the late meal, extending the time between the day meals. At the age of five months three meals a day should suffice, and in another month or so, if it is warm weather, a morning and night meal will be ample. Here again we must be governed by considerations of the breed and the individual. Some breeds you want as large as possible, while others should be of moderate size, and still others are better when as small as possible. To make a big man, it is of no use to stint the boy until he is eighteen years of age and then stuff him. His best growing age is past then, and so it is with a St. Bernard or any dog whose growth we wish to be as large as possible collie, setter, great Dane, and others in the same category. Keep a dog of this kind grow- ing continuously from the time he leaves his dam till he is a year old, espe- cially so in the case of the larger breeds, as they are slow to attain full height^ whereas collies, setters, and the like have pretty well reached their growth at ten months, after which they mature. Terriers and such as can be made too large by over-feeding should be brought to three or two meals a day sooner than large dogs. Toys it is better to feed with non-stimulating food than to limit the meals too much. Use cereals with a smaller quantity of meat, or rice and fish, the idea being not to grow a dog devoid of shape, as will be the case if it never has a full meal. For these small breeds the toy-dog biscuits are very useful when fed plain or with a little soup or gravy, there being meat enough in them for ordinary use.

The exercise of a little judgment in this regard is the best advice that can be given. One should always remember that he is injuring his dog more by getting him fat than by cutting out the meat in his dish, and having him smell and leave his food. He will eat when he is hungry. Some will get along on almost nothing. We once had an Irish terrier that we took to Southport show, in England, where she was given equal first in the variety class, the judges being two well-known gentlemen. One of them, either the late Mr. Lort or the late John Douglas, said: “You would have won sir, if your terrier had not been so fat.” We said that it was impossible to keep her down and that she had but one biscuit a day. “Show it to her, show it don’t let her eat it!” On the other hand, with some dogs one might almost shovel the food into them and then they would never be more than passably fat, for, like ourselves, it is not the heaviest eater that is the stoutest person at the table.

Of any beast none is more faithful found, Nor yields more pastime in house, plain, or woods, Nor helps his master’s person, or his goods, With greater care than doth the dog or hound. MOLLE.

In selecting a dog for the house there is ample scope for choice according to the conditions under which the animal can be kept. The first consideration for an owner is as to what accommodation he can give his dog, for there is a vast difference between a city flat or home, and a countryhouse, where unlimited liberty can be given the pet of the household. For a city dog give preference to something of moderate size, even the smaller toy dogs, though setters or pointers do very well, if fancy runs in that direction. Anything large, such as a St. Bernard, mastiff, great Dane, or the heavily coated dogs, had better be left out of the question, unless fancy is imperative for one of those breeds. Terriers are good for the house, provided moderation in feeding is exercised, for they are apt to eat too much, and a fat-laden terrier is an eyesore to any person who likes to see a dog as he should be in the way of condition.

Heavily Coated Dogs

Heavily coated dogs are better avoided for the reason that the process of the annual shedding of coat is a prolonged one, and it is impossible to prevent the falling coat from attaching itself to carpets, rugs, or anything upon which the dog lies. Still another reason is, that during this long process of shedding and then awaiting the coming of the full coat the dog does not look his best, and a house-dog should, like its owner, be fit to be seen by company at all seasonable hours.

Dog Care of House Dogs

Having decided upon the dog that is most satisfactory to please individual fancy and the accommodations of the home, the next question is, what to do for the animal when it arrives. If the dog is to be the property of any member of the family in particular, it is well to allow that one to attend solely to the unpacking or receiving the newcomer. Dogs are, as a rule, prone to look upon such a person as a special master, and attach themselves accordingly, though of course, there are exceptions, and puppies and young dogs call for more individual subsequent attention than do grown dogs who have had experience in recognising and obeying a master. Give water at once, more especially if the dog has come from a distance, or the weather is warm. Feeding is a secondary consideration, and may with advantage be preceded by a short run on the chain, followed by a light meal on the return to the house

Cleanliness in the house is the great essential in the house-dog, and it is very natural for a purchaser to insist upon its being guaranteed. Some people will do so readily, but others will not give a guaranty with a dog, and for a very good reason. They say, and with truth, that to a person ignorant of dogs the assurance that the dog is house-broken will cause it to be imposed upon to its possible serious injury, and the cleaner the dog the greater the likelihood of its being imposed on. Such a seller will say: “I will not guarantee this dog as house-broken, but I will tell you that he has been in my house for some time and has not misbehaved. He is always given a good run the last thing at night and liberated the first thing in the morning; and during the day he is allowed to go out whenever he seems desirous of so doing.” A dog will conform to almost any habit desired, but the responsibility of respecting the requirements of the dog falls as much on you as on the dog.

House Breaking your Puppy

No puppy is house-broken, for that is a matter of education, and hence a young puppy is better kept out of the house and permitted only to come in occasionally and never before he has had a good run, if he has been sleeping. Once in the house, he must be watched and put out the moment there is any indication that it is advisable or necessary, and kept out till it is safe to admit him. Of course the puppy is sure sooner or later to misbehave, and then without the least delay he must be shown what he has done, scolded, and put out-of-doors. Any further mishaps must be punished by switching; but never punish unless you can at once associate the punishment with the reason for it, otherwise he does not know what it is for. Sooner or later the puppy will learn to let you know that he wishes to go out, and whenever he makes a move to the door let him out. He soon learns that he can get out if he wishes.

There are those who will train dogs for up-to-date flat use and accustom the puppy to use a box. Where a dog has once made use of a place, he is prone to return. Accordingly the puppy, on being brought home or taken from his travelling-box, should be put into a shallow box with sawdust on the bottom of it, and kept there till he may be allowed to run about. , If the box is then left as it is and he can get into it unaided, he will likely tumble into it in his wanderings, and the smell of the sawdust will induce him to make use of the place again, and thus the habit is acquired.

Sleeping Areas and Baskets for your Dog

Very elaborate sleeping-baskets are furnished for house-dogs, with mats, rugs, or dainty cushions. These are well enough for the tiny drawingroom pet, but are out of place for a terrier or anything larger. For such a dog we recommend a plain box. It may be made of hard wood or of any wood painted and varnished if desired, but not upholstered. Have it of a size to enable the dog to lie comfortably, and on the bottom put a layer of paper newspaper, plain wrapping-paper or, if one is fastidious, a piece of fancy paper. Tar-paper may be used in the summer-time if the smell is less objectionable than fleas. A dog will lie as comfortably on a piece of paper as on a feather cushion, and a new bed costs nothing, while a dash of boiling water around the box will kill any vermin.

Many mistaken notions prevail about the proper way to treat a dog. The world is growing in wisdom and humanity, and the old saying that ” the more you beat them the better they be,” is no longer believed to be true of the dog any more than it is of the woman who was included in the doggerel.

The best authorities agree that a dog should never be whipped, or struck a blow more se vere than a slap with the hand, and even that not over the ears, mouth, or abdomen, where a slight blow may do great damage. A dog is an intelligent being, and as sensitive to tones of voice, to reproof and praise, as a child. The voice alone is all that is needed to control him, and to bruise his body to reach his mind is as brutal and unnecessary with the one as it is now acknowledged by the wisest educators to be with the other. Moreover, it is very I’m portant that if a dog is to be punished in any way it should be immediately after the offence, so that he will perfectly understand what it is for. He is very quick to appreciate injustice, caprice, or cruelty, and he con ducts himself accordingly. If he is properly punished for an understood fault he is peni tent, and begs, in his way, to be forgiven ; if too severely or without understanding, he resents it.

One who holds the lives of others in his hands must not forget that liberty is the breath of life to beast as well as to man, and every one, whether in city or country, should daily have as much of it as is consistent with the rights of others. To keep one of these restless fellow-creatures chained up day after day is terrible cruelty, and one cannot be sur prised that the unfortunate captive grows cross and savage under the treatment. If he is a watch-dog only, and it is not safe to have him at liberty, it would be more humane to muzzle him, and let him have the run of the place, or a yard of good size.

To make an animal of the canine race agree able as a house companion in the city necessitates bathing at least twice a month. Great care is required in the case of one of the smaller and more delicate sorts to avoid cold, such as wrapping at once in flannel, or rub bing and brushing till every hair is dry.

The training of a dog for the companionship of people is a subject worthy of a book. As a rule, the home pet gets very little training, and, like the child of a thoughtless mother, runs over everybody, and makes himself a nuisance to all persons except his doting mis tress. It is so easy in the beginning to teach a dog to behave himself, and be a pleasure instead of a pest, that it is surprising how fre quently this simple duty is neglected, and the pet allowed to rule the house, and make every body in it uncomfortable.